If you’ve got a magnifying glass, your phone will be able to autofocus much closer if you put the magnifying glass between the camera and the object.
If you’ve got a magnifying glass, your phone will be able to autofocus much closer if you put the magnifying glass between the camera and the object.
A trick is to weigh the filament before you start drying it and then weigh it again every few hours to see if it’s stopped getting lighter. If it’s been hours since it lost a single gram, then it’s probably close enough to as dry as it’s going to get, and if it still doesn’t behave, then there must be a second problem.
My enclosure is made from £4 of plywood, £8 of filament and £35 of laser-cut acrylic, and unlike the official SV08 aluminium enclosure, doesn’t have massive holes in it. I left out the SV08 enclosure price because the Sovol enclosure is expensive and dumb.
An SV08 is $600 and a Formbot 350mm kit is $800 plus $65 for the printed parts if you don’t already have a printer that can do ABS, so it’s 44% more for the Voron, which isn’t that close to the same amount. It’s a big enough difference to make the SV08 the better choice for some people.
I’ve got an SV08. It’s not a perfect printer, but making a printer without the problems it has (e.g. the bed takes nearly an hour to settle after it’s reached temperature, so it needs a long preheat for all but the shortest prints) would require making it much more expensive (e.g. a thick aluminium or graphite bed that wouldn’t warp would add another 20% of the cost of the printer). That specific problem is sidestepped with the MK4S by simply having a much smaller build volume rather than because it’s higher-end and more expensive. I’ve not needed support from Sovol (yet?), so can’t comment on whether they’re still super slow like they supposedly were right after the SV08 launched.
I’ve got a textured PEI bed and when I’ve printed TPU, the adhesion has been perfect, i.e. good enough that the part wasn’t going to go anywhere unless I wanted it to, but still easy enough to remove when the print was done and the bed had cooled. I guess it could vary from filament brand to brand, so it’s possibly worth trying the same brand as I used, which was cheap Geeetech stuff. It’s £8 a roll, and I’ve used their cheap PLA for ages. I wouldn’t recommend their ABS+, though, as it seems to break down at the lowest temperature that gives reasonable layer adhesion.
You can weigh it before you start drying it and weigh it again every few hours until it stops getting lighter.