Crazy to me that printers still aren’t a bit better at detecting this.
Crazy to me that printers still aren’t a bit better at detecting this.
If you are looking for something with less of a learning curve jump from Tinker to free cad, I’d suggest Matter control as a nice free intermediate level workspace.
Yes due to outdoors. Even in low light, UV can add up and also, it takes quite some time, but even racemic pla does start to break down with aqueous exposure.
Recommend buying a dedicated butane torch (<$40) for print cleanup. Something in between a zippo and a crem brulee torch. Works wonders on removing and stranding on your prints.
Polycrillic finish is pretty inert stuff. Can’t imagine a sealant layer of it would be too toxic to plants or get significantly incorporated into any edible plant materials. I use polycrillic coated pla for weighing out coffee beans.
Ambitious early project. I’d probably go with petg.
There are plenty of good tutorials / suggestions for general water tightness with regards to slicer settings. Water tight joints will be tricky. Consider sanding and then torching them. I’ve had good results with clearcoat spray after sanding pla. May work with petg too.
Curious why you didn’t go with xl for this? Cost?
Hrrmm. Does it still print? Personally I’d go with hope it kind of burns off over time with normal use. Others may disagree…
Cool toilet bro.
You are talking about that blue stripe?
That far out from the transition I think thatust be a filament coloring error.