It actually IS possible to print on the plain glass on the other side. Many early machines only had glass as a build plate, so that’s valid - especially with various other materials.

The black surface does wear out over time, when you need to replace it, a magnetic sheet + PEI build surface is probably what you want to move to. The biggest problem with the black glass plates is that the surface acts like sandpaper; and it can easily destroy a nozzle with just a short swipe across it.

I said backwards, not upside down. You have the logo facing the back of the machine. It’s supposed to be readable from the front.

An Ender 3 v2 with the plate on backwards.

Just be aware that the plastic shroud tends to disintegrate over time. The MrIscoc firmware for that machine is a huge step up from what comes with it; if that’s your kinda thing. If modding machines isn’t though, don’t ever touch the firmware.

Removed by mod

Tailscale is only for the server/host. You’re not changing all of your VPN services over to this, you’re using it in a ‘reverse’ fashion. You’re VPN-ing the server out to the world so it’s reachable and you have port forwarding options, etc.

From there, it can be reached by any client on the internet as a service. From there though, I don’t know how you’d get to it securely without a domain and SSL (Let’s Encrypt/Caddy) certs.

A domain is only like $16/year. So it’s not prohibitively expensive.

I repair 3D printers for a living, this was dropped or slammed into something else. That connector on the v2 is NOT a flimsy plastic. But you’re right, you can just print another one. The belts don’t have to be so tight; at best “snug”.